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Hexa copter frame
Hexa copter frame











Do not use the captive method if your printer has any sort of layer adhesion issues. NoCaptive means the holes are open and you just drop the nuts in place after printing, and then secure them with hot glue or a soldering iron and PLA (once you have screwed them in, so they line up properly). Captive means the M5 nuts are inside the print which means you must set your print job to pause at the number of mm in () next to captive in the title.

HEXA COPTER FRAME FULL

Complete refers to a full piece, half refers to a piece that is cut in half (symmetrically, so you just reprint it a second time). The file names are made specifically for what you need based on your printer size. Print at whatever speed suits your machine best to provide consistent accuracy and good layer adhesion. If you do that, I recommend doing so after you have screwed them into their places so you make sure they line up properly once bonded. An 8 inch x 8 inch is optimal, but I split the largest parts in half so you can print them in two and friction weld (with a Dremel and PLA) or solder (with a soldering iron and PLA) the pieces back together. You need a 5 inch x 8 inch print bed at the minimum to print out the parts for this project. 118in(3mm) x 12in x 24in (Not necessary, I used this rather than printing some of the flat parts.) (Amazon)

hexa copter frame

(2) Black PLA/ABS 1Kg Roll -$XX (your filament of choice) (6) Silver Short Aluminum Standoffs -$7.50 () (1) Voltage Stepdown (to 12V for LEDs) -$13 () (6) 2ft 18 Awg Black Wire -$6 (Ace Hardware) (6) 2ft 18 Awg Red Wire -$6 (Ace Hardware) (2) 40cm Red/Black Wire Mesh Sleeving -$2.50 () (1) 40cm Green/Black Wire Mesh Sleeving -$1.25 () (6) M5 thumbscrews With Fine Threading (I used the shorter GoPro thumbscrews, they are perfect) (Lots) Of Extras of Above -$<10 (Ace Hardware) (12) M5 Fine Threaded Nuts (Must be Fine Threaded) -$<10 (Ace Hardware) I use Turnigy iA6 or iA10, but Spektrum and FrSky have the most popular models) (1) Radia Tx and Rx for control (Your choice. I like the Turnigy Reaktor and a lipoconnectionsolutions powersupply) (1) 1ft of Black 12 Awg High Load Bearing Wire -$1.70 (. (1) 1ft of Red 12 Awg High Load Bearing Wire -$1.70 () Here I will list everything I used for this project, however many of the parts can be swapped out with your own preferences or requirements, as long as they fit the parameters. Weight at takeoff with one battery, and GoPro+Gimbal was ~2.5Kg

hexa copter frame

The parameters that are required for this project are: My goal for this project: To create a working hexacopter that fit 9.4 inch propellors and weighed around 2.4kg at takeoff, and to make this hexacopter frame entirely 3D-printable. I hope it does the same for you! I used a Makerbot Replicator 2 3D printer, and a Epson Legend 36EXT industrial laser cutter to do this project, however all parts are 3D-printable and will be uploaded in that format. I really enjoyed creating, designing, and building this project because it expanded my knowledge a lot and gave me the opportunity to test out many new concepts. I named it that because the DJI S900 and S1000 fold downwards as well, and because the diameter from the center of one motor to the opposite is approximately 530mm. This is the Instructable for the fully 3D-printable hexacopter I designed and have named the S530.











Hexa copter frame